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Gold is Bold — The New Icon of Bangkok

Updated: Nov 17, 2020

Everything you need to know about


"Wat Paknam Phasi Charoen"


Background History


Surrounded by scaffold and standing high over the surrounding area the huge new Buddha statue is slowly being revealed as tier by tier the scaffold is removed. The not shy to be seen Gold Buddha seems to reign supreme gazing out over the backwater klongs (meaning canals) of The Chao Praya River, it seems a new temple is born.


Wat Pak Nam is not a new temple it is a temple that has been undergoing a renovation project that is now near to completion, well as far as the new statue is concerned. This is an 8-acre site or some 32,000 square meters and is not a new temple at all. This temple was founded in around the early 1600's during the Ayuthaya  period. Around the 1780's the name changed and records indicate that Wat Pak Nam was chosen (Wat = Temple, Pak Nam = Upstream). The name was given due its proximity to the river and Klongs in bang Luang. It is much older than we think. Until recently it rarely gained tourist attention at all. Then the transformation project began and as the tour companies and off trail tourists began wandering the klongs, slowly the Buddha began to take shape and with its prominence so hard to miss much more interest began to occur.


The final part of the Statue was due to be completed around April this year (2020). Work has dropped as Covid-19 took hold and even the temples have had to lockdown. The temple has undergone more than one change and in 1918 was in a state of disrepair. It became a place of education and meditation and at its peak it had over 100 Monks. In the temple lays the body of Luang Phu Sod who was the leading influence and who in the 1950's and wanting to in some way help local troublemaking children he opened a school that was free. The school concentrated on pali studies and the Luang Phu Sod meditation method. The school was at some time handed over to the Thai government began to spread education and schooling across Thailand. It shows the respect for this leader as his body was never cremated and is still held in a coffin for people to pay their respects.


It has a long history and is not just another new temple springing up from nowhere. It is only in the last 8 months are so that khanom have tried to include views of this on some of our off-trail tours. 


Its location in the Phasi Charoen district of Bangkok means it is not on the tourist trail and although it is certainly not the hardest place to find it has the competing aspect of the surrounding Klongs being attractive to those looking for a more local way of life. The temple was once supported mostly by the wealthy Thai populace of Bangkok but was unheard of in tourism circles until the renovation project was started. Even now it is rarely visited in depth, mainly viewed from the passing boats who are taking the tourists out on the Klongs. The temple is favoured by the Nun (mae chi) community and among its charity work is known for the 5 precepts of teaching.



In 2004 a large Stupa was built (Maharatchamongkhon), and dedicated to the Thai Royal family. The cost around 500 million Thai baht. The halls within the Stupa are decorated in Buddhist cosmology. This Stupa alone is an 80 meters high polygon with 12 sides and 5 floors. Within this is another 8-meter high Stupa and old relics of the past. The life of Luang Phu Sodh will also be seen in the decorative scenes within the Stupa. Finished in 2012 it had taken some 8 years to complete. After completion of the stupor the popularity of the temple rose with both domestic and international visitors, this looks set to increase further with the new statue. 


A large collection of buddha images from different eras like a mini museum inside the stupa


The World's First Glass Chedi Inside the Stupa

The Large Gold Buddha Statue


In 2017 work started on the The Phra Buddha Dhammakāya Thepmongkhon the large Gold buddha statue that we see under all the scaffolding now. It was built in honour of Luang Pu Sodh (Buddhist Monk) and once again in hommage to the Thai royal family, hence this is a Royal temple. At 70 meters high and 40 metres wide, the statue sits just in front of the Stupa built not so long before it. Meditational postures are common, many of those represent differences in style and teachings and the posture used on this statue is said to be one used By Luan Pu Sodh himself. The heart is supposed to be made of gold and the statue itself of pure bronze, making it the first in the world of its kind.  Relics and gold are again reputed to be in the lotus leaf atop the Buddha head. I have seen interest in this temple soar and photo's I have published on our facebook page have had some of the highest views of any I have posted. The interest in this will be huge although not being on the tourist trail will mean it should not get over run. 


Photo Credit: Chainan Pitchayanon

The temple has links internationally and has ordained both Monks and Nuns from the United Kingdom as well as other countries. It has very close links with Japan and has branches in New Zealand, America, India and Japan. Apart from traditional Buddhist ceremonies and meditation, the temple teaches Thai culture, arts and language and these are also taught at its connected Wat Pak Nam temple in Japan, the foundations of which were the inspiration of Luan Pu Sodh. The Thai Wat Pak Nam has undergone 3 restorations so far. This deeply historic but backwater temple is internationally recognised and in essence provides to many charitable causes and was central in Both Thailand and Japan during troubled times such as the Tsunami. Support for the temple came from Thai kings right up until the 19th century. 


Off The Beaten Path Destination


Train Station @ Talat Phlu

We are sure to be taking many more clients here and continue to watch the statute finished. Most can see this from the klongs when taking the off trail longtails that cater for the Thonburi sections of Bangkok. It is not the easiest as I have said and you will want some time to get there and back again into the more central locations you may be staying at. The view of it is breath-taking as you travel the klong and see it rising high into the skyline. For a more up-close look and to get inside you might want to put aside a half a day if doing this alone. Then settle down for a look around the Klongs to get a feel for local life.


 

Location - How to get there


Address: 300 Ratchamongkhon Prasat Alley, Pak Khlong Phasi Charoen, Phasi Charoen, Bangkok 10160


  1. Meter Taxi — From Bangkok downtown, the taxi fare is approx 200 - 400 THB depending on traffic and tolls

  2. By Skytrain — Take a skytrain (green line) and get off at Talat Phlu station (S10), then take a taxi straight to the temple (taxi fare around 70 - 130 THB)

  3. Bus from Khaosan Rd. — Take a bus no.43 to Talat Phlu Market and then baht bus or taxi to the temple (Not recommended for the first time travelers in Bangkok)

  4. Tuk Tuk — Not recommend at all cost as the temple location is too far away from Bangkok downtown. Unless you are a big fan of fast & furious, this might be a perfect journey to hell.


Bangkok is what you make it.


 

Author: Gary C.

Editor: Katie K.

Photo Credit:

IG @babyboy2528

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