Unseen Thailand — Phrachuab Khiri Khan

Updated: Jul 10, 2020

Make the unseen...SEEN

Within the narrow corridor among Thailand's Southern Gulf is the spectacular and often missed Prachuap Khiri Khan. 100kms from Hua Hin this is a quiet piece of paradise. Around 11km from the border of Myanmar this small piece of Thai paradise might want to be a place that you consider when you are over the tourist trail.

Facts about Prachuap Khiri Khan

Prachuap Khiri Khan consists of 7 districts with amazing beaches and attractions like Pa La-u waterfall. The 11-tier waterfall is the province equal of Kanchanaburi, and its well-known Erawan falls. Known for its abundant flora and sea-views there is also a Palace, Klai Kang Won Palace. Much quieter than its tourist rival of Hua Hin, the season here runs from November to April. The provincial capital of Prachuap Khiri Khan is a fishing port in a superb location with curving bays and mountain backdrops. Islands allow for snorkelling like Koh Talu and koh Sing in Amphoe Bang Sapahan Noi. Overnight stays are allowed and fishing is prevalent too. Also known locally as the three bays province, it is abundant with food and local hand made goods such as basketwork, fresh and dried Seafood, dried fruits, dried bananas with honey, and specialises in goods made from aloe vera. The Isthmus of Khra is the land is the land bridge that connects mainland Asia with the Malay Peninsula. Khao Chong Krajok viewpoint looks out over to Myanmar some 15kms away. Homage is paid in June to by enclosing a pagoda in cloth and worshiping old relics. Monkeys roam freely and care should be taken when climbing the 400 steps to the top. A Stupa was built here by king Rama VI.

Prachuap Khiri khan is a gateway to the south. Its lack of tourism as a major income source means that peace is almost a guarantee. Culture, Fishing, Mountains and agriculture gain you a more local experience. Not far away is a national park, with caves and peaks for you to explore. The reefs around the islands complete the picture that makes Prachuap Khiri Khan a tourism contender. It is places like this that will bring you back to Thailand as not everywhere is the same.

Khao Lommuak

Proto Credit: พ.อ.อ.อนุรักษ์ สิงห์โตอ่อน

Located in the area of Thai royal air force base closed to Ao Manao, Khao Lommuak is a rocky and steep limestone mountain overlooking to Thai Gulf.The mountain is 300m (902 ft. Approx.) in height and you can simply see a stunning panoramic view of all 3 bays joined together which are Ao Manao, Ao Noi, Ao Prachuap at the mountain top. Occasionally in summer time you can

see a separated sea here. The mountain is also a reserved national park inhabited by wild dusky langurs.

At its rocky summit are a Buddha footprint which was built in the era of King Rama 4.

Khao Lommuak is very much favoured by a lot of Thai climbers. However, the mountain is open for visitors and climbers on long weekends or special occasions only. Due to its steepness and related accidents, Roped climbing is advised. This area covers a lot of Via ferrate climbing styles where pre bolted steel lines are secured to the mountain, you connect to these via harness and karabiner. If you have never done any climbing then this is a very good place to start.

At the bottom is a shrine Sarn Chaopho Koh Lommuak, People pay respects to the mountain spirit here. This is a limestone peak and the highest peak within the area. If you are after a gentle walk then this viewpoint is not for you as although it’s not rated on the difficult scale, you will run out of path near the top and the only way to hit the summit is via the fixed ropes and a little low level scrambling. The mountain is a monkey preservation area and claims to have the cutest in Thailand. I would advise extreme caution around all monkeys in Thailand. Take water, gloves and reasonable clothing for the hike up. No high heels or brogues on this one. This is more a hill or peak than a mountain with a height of just over 300m. The climb will take 45 mins to an hour depending on your fitness level.

Ao Ma Nao

5 km’s away southwards and still under the watchful eye of the Royal Thai Airforce is Ao Ma Nao. The Thai and Japanese did battle here during World War II. This curved bay is virtually tourist free although there are stretches where stalls are selling local goods. The bay looks out to the islands of koh Luem and Ko Aen sitting 1.5 km’s off the beach. Surrounded by steep limestone cliffs it is also known as Lime bay. Reaching the bay takes you through the Air force base.

The Japanese attacked here in 1941 hoping to disrupt the British army in Burma by setting up base here. 42 Thai’s died and 217 injured defending what became the battle of Prachuap Khir Khan. Ao Manao took the brunt of the fighting with many residents taking refuge at mount Luam Muak. Fighting officially ended on December 9th after a fierce battle in which the Thai defenders refused to surrender even under orders believing it was a trick. Thai government officials had to go with a car emboldened with a white flag and order their own soldiers to stand down as an armistice had been signed. The Thai’s claim 217 Japanese dead and 300 wounded but were outmanned, outgunned and driven into retreat.

Khao Sam Roi Yot National park

This national park is located 45km from Hua Hin, lying between Prachuap Khiri Khan and Pran Buri. Once again limestone plays a major part of the landscape and peaks. The name indicates the this is a mountain with 300 peaks although these peaks are not connected solely to one mountain, but are a series of peaks jutting along the gulf of Thailand. The highest is estimated at around 600m. The national park is itself approx. 98km square. It was the first National marine park in Thailand. 35 percent of the park is wetlands and marsh and is the largest wetlands in Thailand. Channels funnel water through the mountains and peaks creating the wetlands before passing out to the ocean. The park is not far from some very scenic beaches and coves. The diversity of wildlife here is not to be taken for granted with over 350 species of birds and many migrating from Australia will head over in January and February. Dusky leaf monkeys and Macaques as well as Loris and deer can be searched out.

Boat rides through the mangroves and some small villages are dotted around the park. The Dusky leaf monkeys may be seen at Laem Sala beach and the Macaques around Khao Daeng. Most other wildlife is deep in the rainforest and has to be actively searched out.

Phraya Nakhon cave

a pavilion constructed during the reign of King Rama V in 1890

The most well-known attractions are the Phraya Nakhon cave which although very beautiful does not truly equal those of khao Bin in Ratchaburi, or crazy horse buttress in Chiang Mai. The cave does have something unusual, Phra Thinang Khuha Kharuehat, a pavilion constructed during the reign of King Rama V in 1890. This distinctive pavilion is now used as the symbol of the province. The cave is around 500m from the beach at Laem Sala and a 450m ascent to the cave. The Pavilion was built for King Chulalongkorns 1890 visit and is located under a large roof entrance. Sun at the right moments will shine down through the roof onto the Pavilion bathing it in sunlight. Be careful when you gaze up as death bridge is where the wildlife tend to act like lemmings and fall from the bridge.

It is believed King Mongkut invited guests to view the solstice in 1868 at the national park, he was a renowned Astrologer. The national park has a long history of royal visits. In May 2020, 3000 year old cave paintings were said to have been found by the fine arts office. Thai folklore does not escape the area with the giant Mong Li cutting one of his daughters in half as she had been promised to two men for marriage. Chao Lao one of the suitors turned himself into a hill for some reason unknown to me. The Khao Sam Roi Yot mountains was born from a basket of fruit, magically transformed into the peaks we see now.

Pranburi walking street

This 200 year old market changes on Saturdays into the walking street market contained within two storey wooden style housing, its flavour is pure local. Although the area is becoming ever more popular with affluent Thai’s and those with artistic aspirations as well as ex pats. New coffee shops and eateries are opening, yet the local side of life is very much held on to. The walking street market although not 200 years old certainly retains the ambience of a bygone era. The food here is not to be missed and Kathy Edmondson kieffer, a friend as well as a local recommends the Pak Nam Pran and suggests everyone take a shipping container and visit the border markets too. Kathy would know as she lives close by and you never ever ignore local advice even if you are khanom. Kathy tells me the golden temple at koh KhaLok is worth the time to visit.

Kui Buri National Park

1,000 square km’s of National park is here although it was only given that status as recently as 1999 and is around 85km’s from Hua Hin. This park spans the border of Thailand and Myanmar and is mostly protected habitat. This national park has a royal connection in that Sandalwood is taken here and used for the Royal cremations. The tree’s chosen should be over 100 years old according to tradition. The real gem here though is the wild elephants and whilst most are paying at the big name sanctuaries as well as the more unscrupulous and outright abusive camps, elephants here can be observed freely roaming their Natural habitat. Again Kathy tells me that seeing these here is not uncommon and you will almost always get to see them. Gaur or Indian Bison also roam free. There was some 320 elephants here circa 2017. Jackal, deer, wild boar and the Burmese hare all make this their home. Over 200 species of birds live here too. The only downside is this is not a place where public transport exists and There is only one general wildlife watching area in Kui Buri, it is at Huai Luek Ranger Station, about 16 km north from the headquarters.

The thing is there are no longer hidden gems, at various points they have all been discovered and seen. Unseen Thailand does not exist. Those places that do exist with relatively little tourism get no 15 minutes of fame. These kinds of places are buzzing with locals and expats escaping the tourist trail of deception for the tranquillity of Thailand. They are not as easy to get to or to get around and places like these mean research and effort. Things most of us try to avoid for the ease of life we need that comes with a holiday. This is more for those who have experienced the big name destinations but do not want to venture out into places too remote. Hua Hin is part of the tourist trail and not so far away, yet add on another two days to your trip there and you open up a whole new world on your doorstep as long as you open your eyes to see it is there.

I want to thank Kathy Edmonson Kieffer for some help here. At Khanom we travel as much as we can but sometimes we need local help too and lucky for us our contact list contains Kathy who pointed us to the right places. I will be up to see you when I can. Thanks also to Katie who I drive mad.