We are not going to be here telling you the places to eat at. the Problem with many paid link blogs, and even unpaid recommended places is they do not always stay around long term. The same food vendors may well pound the street day after day like one of my friend's parents manage to do. They keep to their patch, pay a few baht to the local police for the privilege, and manage to work well into old age. The shop style cafe's however do not survive so well. Names and locations vary, also many of the places that we go to at khanom are often not on your trail through Thailand. I am very lucky to Have spent 15 years being guided myself through this amazing country by some very experienced teachers. Not everyone is that lucky. I spend all of my time living with Thai families, no matter where I am staying. Then there is my staff at khanom who walk every inch and more of Bangkok. Once I was told I was the google of Bangkok, this was said by local Thai's and some still say this, the reality is everything I have seen and done, everything I have experienced and managed to learn was taught to me by someone. Those people were all Thai. Then I managed to employ three guides with encyclopedic knowledge of Bangkok as well as other areas, they embarrassed me with the gaps in my knowledge, and laughed at my attempts to speak Thai.
An important lesson they taught me was thus, that the best way to experience Thai food, was to eat where locals eat and never concern of the name.
I was taught to walk the side streets of Bangkok and find my food there. Many of the places khanom eat at are random with no real reputation's in blogs. Unpretentious and local, the way it should be. There is food everywhere in Thailand, it is a national pastime to eat. Walk to make yourself hungry and explore the small soi's, it is here you will find the best of the street-foods being sold.
"Guay Tiew" means noodles in Thai and there are a few varieties used. Some will only be used with certain base broths and others will be used in almost any base broth, (like Tom Yum). There is one class of Thai noodle that is used in specific dishes using only two base broths.
1. Guay Jub (Rice noodle roll in soup)
Guay jup are noodles used in a broth of clear soup, the soup becomes a base that can be turned into a variety of dishes just by adding further ingredients. The broth is normally one of two kinds, one is a spiced and dark style broth (often using five spice powder), Guay Jub Nam Khon. The second is a clear pork broth or Guay Jup Nam Sai.
The Guay JupNoodle is however unusual, although it is a rice noodle which is commonly used throughout SEA, The Guay jup noodle is not so common and until recently not so easy to locate in the west. Par boiled then pressed and rolled, a little salt is added and it is then cut into small square shapes instead of the more normal coils. The cooking process then rolls them into curls and often they are called rice flake noodles. Noodle dishes in Thailand can contain any type of noodles in general, the Guay Jup noodles are primarily used only in the two broths described above. Once cooked the noodles have a softish slightly sticky consistency, (unless of course i am cooking them, then they may just not make the grade). Mostly, freshly made in Thailand and prepared in the early mornings before many of us are awake.
Locals especially those of an older nature pretty much love this dish, you though may want to check the version you are ordering. one of the main features of the original dish was that it mainly consisted of the animal innards and entrails. Combine that with a splash of red blood and you are on your way to being a local. Really i have another admission, I have never ordered the full-on version. I can just about cope with the more modernised versions that contain a few bits of liver.
I read somewhere, but no idea where, that in Chinese Jup means ten and that 10 additional items should be added to the broth. So, you do not need to feast on innards and gizzards as you can ask all of that to be left out and go tourist style with Crispy pork, a nice crispy skin covering with softly melting pork adding texture to taste. Coriander and a boiled egg with an assortment of condiments to top of the broth. Mostly the old timers take the five spiced version especially those of Chinese descent.
2. Yen Ta Fo (Pink Noodle Soup)
Pork broth or Chicken?, Sriracha sauce or chilli. This is a very nice soup style dish. This pink noodle soup is another local favourite. Colour is the first thing we notice here with a pink soup, instead of the plain clear broth. Actually, it's still a simple plain stock that is easily made at home, the Yen Ta Fo sauce is where it gets more complex. Originating from china, Tofu stuffed with mince pork or fish was the ingredient of choice, Times have moved on and now adaptation has seen a move away from the older Tofu recipes. Those who are into counting their macro's can pretty much choose what you need. if you are into cooking at home then this is a good one to try, preparation time probably takes up the major portion of the cooking process. The sweet but spicy sauce is made from red bean curd, complimenting and combining with red ketchup, pickles, morning glory and fish sauce. Rice or egg noodles simmer away with squid, shrimp, pork or fish balls, maybe all of them if that's what you like. Some add a colouring that is really not needed if this is done right. Some will take out the ketchup as red bean curd will suffice; the colour really will vary depending on the vendor. The same can be said of how hot this gets, Chilli factor is personal vendor to vendor. Add in some Wonton and peppercorns too and now we can see how preparation takes so long. This is possibly why not many cook this at home. Sometimes a noodle soup can look quite plain and although they taste great, they often look bland. Yen ta is neither bland nor plain, colour and taste will bring you back again and again.
3. Guay Tiew Tom Yum (Noodle in Tom Yum Soup)
There is not too much to say on this that you cannot piece together yourself. the name denotes it all. Guay Teow or Tiew, if you have been taking notes means noodles in Thai. Tom Yum as you may know from the last blog is one of the most widely known soups in the whole of Thailand. When I am in Thailand and meet with the guides or the director's or even just out and about with friends, I can guarantee Tom Yam soup will be an almost daily suggestion. The noodle version is much more on the go. Lunchtime seems to be more favoured for this kind of meal. (Although rice constitutes a staple part of the Thai diet regime, certain Noodle dishes seem to be favoured more at different times). this is one of those that gets grabbed at lunchtime, it makes a good but light meal all on its own. Thai's are very social eaters and often share evening meals, ordering a dish each then sharing amongst the group. Guay Teow Tom Yum is perfect for those dining alone. This none can get spicy the same as the soup, you have to get a feel as to what is right for you. I prefer this spicy but too spicy can lose you the layered flavours that make up the Tom yum. That is not such a big deal in this version, it is after all food on the go. Save the normal soup version for evenings and beaches. I have even been known to take the soup home and throw in some noodles and make my own versions from a left-over meal. Thai people hate wasting food. Sometimes I still skip breakfast when I wake up and find it is last night's dinner. I never was one for left over Tom Yum at 6 am.
4. Gao Lao (Braised Pork Soup)
Now here we have a secret, well it's not really a secret lol, Gao lao is a noodle soup that has a very remarkable distinction from all the others above. Gao Lao is traditionally a noodle soup with NO NOODLES.
So, you can order noodle soup without noodles, but then what do we get. Well this is just the broth with everything added in the way of meat, fish and vegetables it may contain blood on the old style but rarely these days. the normal today is always the BALLS. C'mon now stop, I mean fish and pork balls are everywhere and cheap and these primarily take pride of place in many of these Noodle soups. Beef is not so common in Thailand and good beef even rarer, I have though found some very good beef style versions of this, one of the best was the Centralworld food court who knows if it is still there.
5. Gauy Tiew Haeng (Dry Noodle)
Now we can confuse you a little more because not only can you order Noodle soup with no noodles, the Thai people, the inventors of taste decided that if you can order Noodle soup without noodles, then you might as well be able to order soup with no soup. See easy right, I mean who wants the soup part anyway. Really I am not making this stuff up lol. We see the street carts handing over the plastic bag in exchange for a few baht and normally more than one. The vendor might fill one with a soup base, one with the veg, one with the meat (such as red pork or crispy pork) and a bag of chilli, sugars and sprouts. Asking for Guay Tiew Haeng you will not get the soup. The other ingredients have been cooked in the soup itself and are then drained and served dry. Put into bags. The ingredients are ready to go. Thai workers in a lunchtime rush may choose this option that is easily eaten on the go. The ingredients are softened through simmering in the broth. The flavours infused, then all is removed and drained. It used to be that nearly all Noodle soups could be ordered this way. Soup without soup what else can I say, but I can.
6. YumYum Chang Noi (Instant Noodle with No Soup)
There is among Thai children a modern favourite on the no soup theme, one that takes around 3 minutes preparation time and around 5 seconds to actually make. Children are not the only ones to enjoy this delicacy. I have on many occasions seen adults digging in too. This involves a very special type of noodle. I am often vilified on my forums for daring to mention that Thai people will eat everything we think they would not. They are surrounded by Tom yams of every flavour from every vendor and exotic fruits at rock bottom prices. Why then would these amazing people not indulge at every chance.
I will tell you why and that is because Thai people love to snack. Kung one of our directors must eat about ten times a day. Often if I phone at any time of the day, she will complain she is hew, (hungry). On these occasions especially before sleep you may well find her snacking on the famous Chang Noi (Chang = Elephant / Noi = Small). Here is the secret. To prepare, go buy some instant noodles, the right brand here is quite important with local brands favoured. Smash the noodles to bits then open the packet. Sprinkle the seasoning over as evenly as you can then shake to death. Now tuck in and enjoy, minus not only the soup but the whole cooking process, meat, fish and everything else. You see everything has to be taken to another level in Thailand and if we can leave out the soup from the soup, the noodle from the noodle soup, surely it makes sense to just not to cook it at all. So please everyone stop telling me that Thai people do not do 7/11, that they only do the exotic and unusual, or that they do not go instant. Instant noodle dishes are found being SOLD at many street vendors carts; Chang Noi though does not even need that.
7. Guay Tiew Khua Gai (Chicken Fried Noodle)
Simple, flavoursome, what more can we want. This is a noodle dish but not as a soup, this comes with more of a sauce. It is basically a chicken fried noodle, once again we see the rice noodle take precedence. A base of fish sauce, soy sauce and sugar combine with a little oil and pepper. Wide noodles are used often known as Ho Fun in Chinese. Some cook to al dente and some cook to a much softer texture before frying. The sauce tends to be thick and sticky and Siracha hot sauce is alternatively served. Chilli is a component but the real heat comes from the condiments like the Siracha sauce. Green onion and some lettuce finish it off. The chicken may be marinated or it might not. Simple, cheap and widely sold, if you like something a little more filling then this will make the cut.
8. Rad Na (Rice Noodle in Gravy Sauce)
Rad na is a main course not for a snack unless you are a big eater. It follows the vein of not being a soup-based meal, the base is a stock and generally cornflour is used to thicken it up. Tapioca starch is added but not by everyone, some might use just one and some add both. Sweet soy sauce and fish sauce are standard fare. The noodles used here can be pretty variable, the wide ho fun style rice noodle is the one I always tend to see. These noodles really do suit the thick sauce far better and as a main meal they are much more filling. Another pretty simple noodle dish widely sold. With dishes like these there is little point in trying to big them up. They are what they are, very simple and easy to make. These are the ones to be making when you get home. Simplicity in street-food does not mean it's lacking in any way. These were designed to be cooked fast and kept simple, something that is the Asian version of fast food. There is no point in trying to find some exotic way of describing a chicken fried noodle. It is what it is, unpretentious, any colour comes from whatever veg finds its way in, Chinese Broccoli and kale will feature in them somewhere. It will never rate highly on a tourist must have list, that does not mean it should not be tried.
The reality of all these dishes is that they are ALL favourites. Thai people just adore food, it is a national pastime of social interaction. Much of this is climate based as much as cultural. The weather even in monsoon is warm and eating outside or away from home is common. Families and friends meet, eat and socialise. Many Thai houses I have been invited too do not even contain a basic kitchen. Most have been a huge gas bottle like a warhead sitting in a garden or in a small cooking area at the back of a house sectioned off and containing a few hanging pots and a washbasin. perched; very in my eyes precariously atop the gas bottle will be a wok deep frying fish. Safety is far less important than the cooking and often I breathe much more easily when the cooking is over and I am not imagining myself blown all over the garden by a loose pipe to the gas. Line app, Food panda, Grab food delivery are all also very cheap and almost every major western outlet like McDonald's and KFC do delivery, 24 hours a day and that includes Thai food. Most of these dishes can be ordered from the balcony of a 5-star hotel if you so wish. I have done that a few times myself. If ever you get a chance to check out the average Thai kitchen, take that chance. How they produce what they do with the utilities they have is beyond my cooking skill set.
Thai food blogs can be everlasting, I am not sure I could ever have time to cover every dish from every province and the variations they have. I am not even sure if I will write any more blogs at all. I cannot stress enough that I do not need to tell you the best places to go, if that was something you wanted in the future I am sure it could be done, I am just not so sure those places will be there when you get there. I am also no expert food critic, so how can I say what really is best, we all have individual preferences, some more experimental than others. ( I Know you are all waiting for an Insects and the BBQ croc blog, right?, yes me too). It is good though for you to understand a little of the basics and how in many cases the names alone can give you a good idea of what you are getting.
There are better writers than me, better explainers, those that can write with an academic style. There are those who can naturally embellish an article to make the mouth water and bring inspiration for you to go out and explore. Unfortunately, none of them were available, so you got me, sorry.
I am lucky in that I, along with Katie and kung own a tour company, not because I get anything for free. (This is a myth, otherwise there would be a link, right? I am lucky because I do get to live both as a tourist and as a local. I spend much of my time speaking with the customers at khanom. On my working days I am a tourist, on my days off, in evenings, I live pretty much like most Thai people in the modernity of Bangkok. Khanom means I interact constantly with Thailand no matter where I might be. I get to eat both ways, as well as at 7/11, Yep even for me the great ham and cheese toastie calls, more often than is possibly healthy especially on road trips. Thai food is what you make it, so what will it be? The more unusual foods in Thailand need a whole section to themselves and here I am just trying to cover the things that you will come across almost anywhere that you go.
Stay safe and eat safe.
Gary C.
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